“2016 had two faces: a terrible spring and a wonderful autumn,” according to top Austrian Bio wine producer Weingut Diwald.
During a hectic harvest Elixrr was able to get a few words from winemaker Martin Diwald about the 2016 harvest, which is looking like another delicious vintage for wine lovers…
E: How would you describe this harvest in your region from bud burst onwards?
Martin Diwald [MD]: 2016 started with a very wet winter which is in principle very good as you top up water supply for the summer months. Bud burst was time-wise normal and was good. In may there was a late frost in Austria which affected a lot of regions including Wagram. Nevertheless, in our villages the damages were not too bad. For myself let’s say about 5%. Blossom was also rather normal beginning to middle of June, but at this time it also started that we had a lot of rain. Much more than we are used to have. Therefore the protection of the vines against mildew and other diseases was extremely intense in 2016. Also the canopy management which is also part of the protection. We had to go in our vineyard twice or three times. Very early we took away leaves from the shady side to let the wind to the grapes, but also protect them from sunburn. Then new “secondary” shoots sprouted inside the canopy, which we took out again. At this time we also did a green harvest for some vineyards where yields where too big. Late August we took away leaves from the sunny side to get the grapes ripe. At this time the weather was also nice, which results actually in a very nice and healthy vintage. All in all you can see that it was an extremely intense season. Except the harvest which is rather easy it was probably one of the hardest season I had in the last 10 years.
E: How would you compare this vintage to other recent vintages?
MD: It is hard to tell yet how wines will develop as we are still harvesting. I think that it will be overall a very good quality white and red. The whites have enough acidity and we are able to harvest late and everything at the time we want. This is very important for me to wait for cold nights, which we have since beginning of October. If you want to compare it with another vintage I would say that it is somewhere between 2012 and 2013. 2013 for me one of the best white wine vintages in the last then years, but 2013 had lower yields than 2016 and less rain. 2012 was rather warm and overall very ripe. For 2016, I expect a vintage which is very balanced in terms of ripeness/body and acidity. Probably a vintage a lot of people will like.
E: Which wines are you especially proud about?
MD: I have a big love for Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. These are my babies where I always try to get the best wine possible with my own signature which seeks for elegance rather than massive wines. Acidity is a major part and that is why I am very fond of cold years and 2016 will be one.
E: How were yields?
MD: Overall good. Some better some not so good, but in overall I am satisfied.
E: Did you have to make any shifts in wine-making techniques due to weather conditions?
MD: Not really, but I am anyway somebody who does not have a recipe. So I always try things …
Thanks, Martin! I can’t wait to try Weingut Diwald’s 2016 wines.
The 2014 vintage in Bordeaux started off choppy with variable cold and damp weather patterns, forcing winegrowers to up their game in order to keep their vineyards both healthy and on track developmentally. Luckily, as harvest approached, the weather stabilized gracing winemakers with an above average warm Indian Summer that brought the fruit through to a good level physiological ripeness. By all accounts, 2014 appears to be a solid vintage, not to the level of the much touted 2009 or 2010 vintages, but one that can nonetheless provide much drinking enjoyment.
It has been a few weeks since the release of the 2014 vintage Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux wines and the vintage includes crus from 278 estates representing seven AOCs: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis, Margaux, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe . The wines have robust colors, firm tannins, balanced by primary black and red fruit flavors on the palate. The concentration and tannins present indicate wines that have some ageability with some wines are already showing finesse.
There are a few different classifications of Bordeaux wines, so it is interesting to take a step back to look at the history of the Cru Bourgeois classification to understand the wines better. The origins of Cru Bourgeois dates back to the Middle Ages and Bourg, a town in the Bordeaux region. Bourg was the home of many of the Bordeaux wine region’s wine merchants and vineyard owners. During the period of English rule, the Bourgeois were given special privileges and rights including tax exempt status on the sale of their wines. Enriched by international trade, by the fifteenth century, the rich Bourgeois bought the best properties in the region and thus earning the name “Crus des Bourgeois.”
The intervening centuries marked by the French Revolution, the classification of 1855, the First World War and the Great Depression all impacted the Crus Bourgeois wines in some fashion or other. War inevitably caused disruptions in their local and export markets and sometimes the removal of preferential tax statuses. And, the 1855 classification incorporated some of the Crus Bourgeois, listing 248 different chateaux mostly considered just a bit below the cru classes. Nonetheless, despite all of these challenges the term Cru Bourgeois has continued on to the present day with a slight interruption in 2007 when the Administrative Court of Appeal of Bordeaux annulled the 2003 official classification of the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc. By 2008, a new system to determining Cru Bourgeois was set into motion.
Cru Bourgeois du Médoc can come from vineyards located in one of eight Médoc AOCs: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe. This designation is subject to a blind tasting of samples from the estates , tasted and scored by a jury of experts made up ofprofessional tasters recognized in the industry, with six tasters per session. Average of the scores are taken, if the wine obtains a score greater than or equal to the representative sample, it is a “Cru Bourgeois”. According to Conseil des Vins du Médoc , 2014 produced 30 million bottles, from 278 estates, mostly from AOC Medoc and make up 33% of Médoc’s production.
Some Compelling Examples of the 2014 Vintage:
Chȃteau l’Argenteyre Medoc – meaty, red currant, raspberries, cherry made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot.
Chȃteau Bégadan Medoc – deep ruby color, tea, black plum, black raspberries, full-bodied, firm tannins.
Chȃteau Bournac Medoc – Tannic, blackberry, brambly, very extracted, good backbone. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot.
Chȃteau La Gorre Medoc – Fragrant violet, floral notes herbal dill notes, black fruit: plums, black cherries. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot.
Chȃteau Aney Haut-Medoc - red fruit: red currants, raspberries, plums. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot.
Chȃteau du Cartillon Haut- Medoc – Very lush, blackberries, black plum, firm tannins yet lush. 67% Merlot, 28% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet
Sauvignon.Chȃteau Lestage Listrac-Medoc – Fragrant sweet red and black fruit, lots of firm tannins balanced by concentrated fruit. 62% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot.
Chȃteau Liouner Listrac-Medoc – Plummy black fruit, very firm tannins. 70% Merlot, 30% Petit Verdot.
Chȃteau Pomeys Moulis-en- Medoc – Good backbone, violets, plums, black fruit. 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon.
It’s inky, mahogany in color, thick and syrupy; oozing with aromas of dried fig, dates and raisins. This dense, muscular monster is punctuated with flavors as far ranging as licorice, coffee, figs, cocoa and treacle. What is this intriguing wine, you ask? Why, it’s the Sherry region’s most decadent “dulce naturale” wine, made with the grape Pedro Ximénez.
Some love it, while others hate this nuclear bomb in a glass. Not for the faint of heart, Pedro Ximénez or PX, the grape used to make one of the richest, sweetest dessert wines on the planet somehow manages to maintain a certain freshness and elegance that belies the fact that many examples exceed 400 grams of sugar! Of course, this has to do with its relatively high levels of acidity.
The secret to obtaining this elegant balance is through “asoleo,” or literally, the “sunning” of the grapes. The benefits of drying grapes out in the sun is that the acidity remains intact as the grapes raisin and their juices concentrate.
The PX of the Sherry region is different than most dessert wines in that it is fortified with the addition of a wine spirit. Once Pedro Ximénez has been stabilized on a microbiological level, the fermentation arrested using wine spirit, further wine spirit is added to fortify the wine up to between 15 and 17 degrees of alcohol.
The PX is then usually put into oak casks that are part of a solera, Sherry’s famous system. This allows the wine to age via fractional blending. The final product will be a mix of different years, with the exception being “Vintage” Sherries or “Añadas,” which are aged in the same cask.
Interestingly, when purchasing sherry, you may notice VOS (Very Old Sherry) 20 or VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) 30 on the label. This means the average age of the solera wine is at least 20 or 30 years old. A solera can date back to the 18th century, theoretically meaning that some drop of wine from many years ago could still exist in the solera. In order to determine the rough age of a bottle of wine, the Consejo Regulador uses carbon dating and puts the wine through a panel tasting. A 30 VORS could actually be closer to 50 years old, which from a wine geek perspective is pretty amazing.
Delicious alone or with a dark chocolate cake, on ice cream or blue cheese, PX is a bargain in the dessert wine world, especially when you consider the level of aging each of these wines undergoes. I recently tasted one that was about 70 years old and I cherished every drop in my glass. Of course, this wine was extremely expensive, but very good PX can still be found between 20-30 GBP.
Below are some compelling examples of PX:
Fernando de Castilla is a small, independent sherry house taken over in 1999 by Norwegian Jan Pettersen. Since then, the bodega has focused on making their Antique range of single solera Sherries top notch.
Fernando de Castilla’s Antique Pedro XiménezVOS has flavors of sticky toffee, dark chocolate and figs. This 20 year old is well integrated despite logging in close to 500 grams/liter sugar.
Salto al Cielo is a boutique almacenista Sherry producer. Their Salto al Cielo Pedro Ximénez is from one single butt, so supply is very limited. Salted caramel, coffee notes and dried prunes were among some of the rich flavors present here.
Osbornewas founded in 1772 by English entrepreneur Thomas Osborne Mann, who started shipping his own sherries in 1804. Today, Osborne owns a large bodega complex on the outskirts of El Puerto de Santa María, as well as an older bodega in the center of town that used to belong to the family Moreno Mora. This bodega has a fantastic range of VORS sherries and is worth a taste and a visit, if you are lucky to get to the Sherry triangle.
Osborne’s Venerable Pedro Ximénez VORS30 Year old is very elegant and full bodied, with dried dates and figs, cocoa and molasses notes.
Another cool, smaller bodega producing interesting sherries, Bodega Yuste Aurora ‘s Pedro Ximénez is well-balanced and ready to drink now despite its density. Loaded with figs, dates and cocoa flavors, the opaque brown-black wine toffee, black coffee flavors.
A typical sherry tasting at Lustau’s bodega, available to visitors.
Bodega Emilio Lustau is one of the most lauded producers in Sherry. In fact, the bodega was the most awarded European winery at the recent 2015 Wine Challenge. They definitely have an extensive range of fantastic sherries that are worthy of serious attention, and their estate tours are not to be missed, as you can see above! I was there a few years back and had a fantastic time trying their range of sherries alongside some of the best charcuterie in my life. It was pure heaven!
Now about their PX…Lustau’sPedro Ximénez VORS comes from one cask selected from a Solera of six, set aside as a family reserve in the 1930’s. This PX is a luscious, deep mahogany with aromas of dried prune, sultana and spicy fig. Concentrated and Sweet, the finish on this wine goes on forever.
Now, last but not least is the Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana, one of the oldest, family owned bodegas in the Sherry triangle. In fact, the estate is now in its 7th generation of Hidalgo’s running the bodega. While the whole Hidalgo line-up is excellent, it is best known for its flagship wine, their Manzanilla La Gitana. This is apparently the most popular Manzanilla world-wide and I can believe it. I try to have this Manzanilla on-hand at home whenever possible as it is so versatile with food and in cooking.
Now back to PX…Hidalgo’s Pedro Ximénez Triana VORS 30 is a top end example of PX. Dark mahogany, densely concentrated, with tea, date and caramel aromas and Black plum, prune and treacle flavors on the palate. This wine has a persistent, long finish.
PX is fun to drink and when paired right, can really add to an evening with friends…or alone. In addition, the high sugar and good acidity levels means that an open bottle can remain for several weeks in the refrigerator without going bad. Not a bad deal.
Time flies when you’re having fun, so the saying goes. It’s hard to believe that I tasted my first South African wine circa 1996–It seems just like yesterday. Back in those days, South African wines were just barely hitting the shelves in the US market and there seemed to be a certain amount of mystery surrounding these wines. No one seemed to know much.
As might be expected, I was excited to have my first taste of South African vino. And one day, the occasion finally arrived, my chance for a taste! An importer new to the wine business, looking for distribution into my market was keen to taste me on his prized Pinotage, a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault.
My first taste of Pinotage that day was surprising…and shocking, but not in a good way. The wine in question came from a cooperative and the importer unabashedly admitted that the wine racked in at above 15.5% alcohol! I should have been prepared for the unbelievable hotness of the wine, but nothing could’ve prepared me for the funky medicinal, banana-ish, nail varnish flavors that I came to learn later were characteristic of poorly made Pinotage.
Thankfully, times have changed, and in the meantime, South African wine producers have learned how to hone the unique South African terroir using world class wine-making techniques. The wines are often well-balanced with good fruit and acidity and best still, South African wines offer a big bang for the buck. These wines are commonly featured on restaurant, wine bar and pub by-the-glass menus due to the obvious value offered in terms of its quality/price ratio.
At the recent Intrepid Tasting, a tasting featuring only the wines of South Africa, I was lucky enough to taste some very interesting wines from some, perhaps, lesser-known, boutique producers.
I stumbled upon Eikendal Vineyard’s wines and was happy to taste a whole range of interesting, very well-made wines. The one that stuck in my mind was the 2015 “Janina” Unwooded Chardonnay, probably because it was both well-made and very reasonably priced. I often wish I could go to more restaurants and find a wine like this by the glass. From Stellenbosh, it has rich flavors of pineapple, mango and peach finishing on limey mineral notes.
Next, I found a fellow-American who recently purchased a wine farm in South Africa and started producing a range of wines. I really liked the Straw Wine and her Chenin Blanc, in particular. Her Botanica 2014 Chenin Blanc is lean, citrus, quince and finishes on a lightly flinty mineral note. Perfect to hangout on the porch and drink with friends and serious enough to pair with top end food. The cool labels were created by incorporating collages painted by British artist Mary Delany in the late 1700′s. It’s nice being able to appreciate artistry both in the bottle and on the outside of it.
Next up, is Thorne Daughter’s 2015 Old Vine Semillion. This wine exhibits stone fruit aromas of peach and nectarine. Weighty on the palate and filled with notes of apricot and honey it is intriguing now, but I wonder what it will taste like in 12-18 months.
Soms-Delta Amalieis awhite wine blendofViognierandGrenache Blanc. The Grenache Blanc grapes aredesiccated on the vine followinganancient Greek practicethatconcentrates color and flavors. TheViognierwas sourced fromsix different sitesto achieve acomplex flavor profile. Both grape varieties werefermentedandmaturedseparately innew French oak barrelsfor aslow fermentationandextended lees maturation, and were blendedprior to bottling. Amaliehasintense fruit flavors of tangerine, honeysuckle, vanilla, layers of complexity and awell-integrated tannic structure and lingering finish.
Solms-Delta’s 2015 Rose is made up of mostly Grenache Noir 97% and a touch of Cinsault 3% Style of Wine this dry rose is like a bowl of fruit freshly picked at peak ripeness in summer, with raspberry, strawberry and a touch of green apple on the finish. This Rose has a beautiful pink- salmon color that reminds me of one of my favorite Rose Champagnes.
Now, back to South Africa’s famous Pinotage. Eikendol Vineyard makes a lighter more delicate version of Pinotage. It’s 2015 vintage is made from Pinotage sourced in Stellenbosch from a non-irrigated, 20 year old vineyard comprised of decomposed granite and koffie klip’. Aged for 12 months in Burgundian and this wine is more pinot noir-like and refined compared to many other Pinotages that display a more muscular flavor profile. This wine is light and fragrant, red currants, wild strawberries and black raspberries.
The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage on the other hand is a heavier, more alpha male version of Pinotage, but also enjoyable, nonetheless.
Rich, and packed with toasty vanilla, red and black plums, black cherries, black berries and a touch of chocolate and a bit of spicy notes, this is a heavy, full-bodied wine that must pair with game and red meat very well.
The Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah is made up of a blend of Syrah (98%) and Viogner (2%) this wine is an aromatic wine with hints of mulberry, dark chocolate and a black raspberry and violet on the palate. Another great food wine for the BBQ or Braai.
Deux Freres is a small family owned winery located on the foothills of the Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch and run by brothers Retief and Stephan du Toit. The brothers focus is in producing quality wines that reflect their unique terroir. With their wine “Liberte,” a blend of Cabernet and Petit Verdot, they have managed to create a wine that is lush and velvety at the same time as having plenty of backbone to carry the fruit. This Bordeaux style blend has plenty of flavor; I got lots of black plum, black cherry, current, cocoa and vanilla flavors on the palate. Their Shiraz/Mourvedre blend and Blanc de Noir are worth exploring, too.
There has to be one “sticky” at any given tasting that grabs your attention and for me it was Miles Mossop’s 2014 Kika Late Harvest Chenin Blanc. This is a decadent treat made with 100% botrytised Chenin Blanc. A golden, viscous, sticky treat of liquid honey, orange blossoms, dried apricot, peach and almond flavors. Harvested at about 42 Brix/ this wine has about 147 g/l RS and 9.3 g/l Acidity, so although sweet, it has plenty of acidity to balance off the sugar. Yum!
I stumbled upon brew pub-restaurant Prohibition Pig on my last trek to the green mountains of Vermont. From the moment I walked in, I knew I struck gold. A beer selection a mile deep, not to mention their own beer offerings, this local brew pub, influence by the deep South, features shrimp and grits, brisket, pulled pork and pork rinds among other Southern specialties.
The bar was packed three deep and all the tables packed with people and laden comfort foods, pork-related or otherwise.
A barbecue joint that serves classic cocktails, craft beers and offers an array of comfort foods, Prohibition Pig also brews its own beer in a building behind its restaurant. Among the selection of beers are several draft offerings from Prohibition Pig’s own brewery, including their Multi-grain IPA and Vanilla Bean Porter. They began brewing in 2013 and the reaction from locals and visitors has been overwhelmingly positive.
The brewery is just behind the restaurant and also offers some food alongside its selection of draft beers, made from the kit shown below.
I couldn’t help but notice that the bar was stocked with some of my favorite micro-distilled spirits. The food passing by me courtesy of the milling wait staff convinced me that the 30 minute wait for a table was a no-brainer. Luckily, I was able to secure a table quickly and could settle in to enjoy some of Prohibition Pig’s offerings.
Below, a peek of their menu.
Our table opted to start with some pork finds and to start with an Old Fashion.
Now for a little fry action. On offer are some duck fat fried french fries.
Now our entrees, a pulled-pork sandwich and their jumbo Hot Dog:
And lastly, the meal ended with Prohibition Pig’s Key Lime Pie.
All in all, a great place for brunch, lunch or dinner. Great beer, cocktails and Southern inspired food always hits the right spot.
Hattingley Valley Wines has a problem; they don’t have enough wine to satisfy all their customers. Established in 2008, its first harvest in 2010, Hampshire based Hattingley Valley has already developed an enviable reputation of producing outstanding English sparkling wine.
Right out of the gate, two of their first releases garnered world-wide recognition, the first being their 2011 Kings Cuvee, which was awarded number one English Sparkler in Decanter Magazine, and then its 2011 Rose Sparkler which won Decanter Gold.
No fluke, the awards have kept on coming in. And now, just five years in, Hattingely Valley’s wines are available throughout the UK and in around ten export markets.
“We know that some of them are the best in the world for sparkling wine, simple as that,” said founder and owner, Simon Robinson, speaking about Hattingley Valley’s selection of sparklers.
Hattingley Valley Wines was the brainchild of owner and founder Simon Robinson and the result of his desire to diversify his existing commercial farm.
“I had been interested in wine, for many, many years, and English Sparkling Wine had been getting a reputation for good quality product. So, the key to this was finding the right people to help us,” said Robinson.
Owner Simon Robinson Taking Part in Blending Trials
Enter winemaker Emma Rice, the next key figure in the Hattingley Valley wine story. After completing wine-making gigs in Australia, Tasmania and California, Rice came back to the UK to regroup and map out her next move abroad.
But, seeing the burgeoning, dynamic English wine industry unfold before her eyes and meeting Simon Robinson changed all that. Now, Head Winemaker at Hattingley Valley, Rice is an integral member of the Hattingley Valley team.
Rice caught the wine bug at 18 with her first taste of Krug’s 1979 vintage cuvee — somehow fitting given that her current wine-making focus is in making world-class, traditionally-styled sparkling wines.
Although, influenced by Bollinger and Krug, Rice hopes that customers recognize that Hattingley Valley’s English sparklers have a “unique style” all their own. What those who have tasted Hattingley Valley wines know, is that Rice has succeeded in making balanced wines that express the pure and elegant fruit unique to England.
Consisting of 22 hectares of vineyard, located on 6 different sites in Hampshire, Hattingley Valley also sources grapes from partner vineyards consisting of up to 60 different lots scattered across the country. There is no doubt these lots add to the complexity of Hattingley Valley’s wines.
And as might be expected, the estate mostly focuses on the traditional Champagne varietals of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with special emphasis on the early ripening Pinot Noir clone Pinot Noir Précoce or Frühburgunder, a key ingredient in Hattingley Valley’s award winning sparkling Rose.
The estate currently features four sparklers in their line-up; a Classic Cuvee, Rose, Blanc de Blanc and their top of the line sparkler, the King’s Cuvee. Each cuvee has its own distinct style and place in the range offered at Hattingley.
Rice explains, “for the Blanc de Blanc we’re looking for the very finest, purest, elegant Chardonnay of characters, then with the Rose we are very much looking for a really lovely balance between the Pinot fruit, acidity and then the sugar at dosage and a very, very delicate color,” continues Rice.
“With the Classic Cuvee it’s very much more a rich style designed for earlier drinking, so there’ll be a higher proportion of the barrel fermented juice in that and it’ll be more of a balance between the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, designed to be released after 12-18 months on the lees,” says Rice.
“Then we have our Kings Cuvee, 100% barrel fermented, it comes from our own vineyards and is completely dependent on the vintage for its style,” explains Rice.
Of course the English terroir plays a major role in the making of top notch sparkling wines. “We have a perfect climate here in some respects…The climate here creates grapes that are perfect for sparkling wine at this time,” declares Robinson.
Much of England’s and Hattingley’s best vineyards are made up of Seaford Chalk soils similar to that found in Champagne. However, England’s growing season is cooler and longer than Champagne’s, with England’s season often ending three to five weeks later on average than in Champagne. This allows the grapes to grow slowly, developing complex flavors without the risk of losing precious acidity. As a result, the English terroir has the potential to create complex sparkling wines with significant aging potential.
Like Bollinger and Krug, winemaker Emma Rice is not afraid to use oak barrels in Hattingley Valley’s range of sparklers, musing that Hattingley Valley likely uses a higher proportion of oak than other English estates.
“One of our key signature wine-making techniques is the use of [old] oak barrels…Using barrels and having a lot of lees contact and relatively oxidative fermentation does help to soften the acidity.”
With the acids sometimes clocking in as high as 14 grams per liter in any given English wine vintage, learning to tame the high acidity inherent in English grapes is a top priority. However, when accomplished and ripe grape levels are achieved, there is a fresh minerality and a depth of fruit that sets English Sparkling apart from many of its cousins in Champagne, which can seem a tad flabby and lacking complexity by comparison.
“In Champagne we have a challenge with global warming,” says Champagne vineyard consultant Romain Henrion, adding “It’s too warm, so the malic acid burns very fast.” It is these acid levels that are responsible for giving some of the freshness and zippy acidity expected from the best traditionally made sparkling wines.
By contrast, England’s variable, maritime climate produces at times too much acidity and can have difficulty in obtaining the ripeness level needed for sparkling wine, despite the fact that sparkling wine is made best with “under-ripe grapes.”
“It’s more about temperature and the light… because when it’s cloudy there is no photosynthesis in the vineyards and when there is no photosynthesis there is no production of carbon matter,” explains Romain Henrion, highlighting the difficulty of obtaining grape ripeness in England.
It goes without saying that working in viticulture in the UK is a character builder.
Vineyard Manager, Jim Bowerman
“We are on the extremity of one of the most northern regions there is growing high quality wine” said Hattingley’s vineyard Manager Jim Bowerman, adding “It’s definitely the place to be if you want challenging grape growing conditions,”
“The biggest challenge we have in the UK is the climate…Site selection is key,” according to vineyard manager Jim Bowerman, adding “A lot of our viticulture is about maximizing the exposure of the leaf to the sunshine at every opportunity, and the bunches. We are looking for a perfect gain through the summer so we get that ripeness by October. “
The English wine industry is still young and there is no doubt the full capability of the terroir is still being explored. Nonetheless, the future for English viticulture seems bright. More acreage is going under vine all the time and new players are entering the market, most notably Champagne house Taitinger who recently announced its intention to invest in an English operation.
“I think English wine will grow substantially in the next 20-30 years and will be as available as Champagne,” said an upbeat Simon Robinson.
It will be interesting to see how the industry continue to develop. The best of English sparklers have shown they can already go toe-to-toe with some of the best in Champagne. In the meantime, there is no denying that players such as Hattingley Valley are producing some compelling sparkling wines that will please the most discerning of consumers.
“I just hope people enjoy the wines we create as much as we enjoy making them,” said Hattingly Valley founder Simon Robinson.
The crowds were thick with exhibitors and visitors excitedly bustling through the various pavilions. All told, there were over 6,000 exhibitors from 59 different countries and over 55,000 visitors, half of which coming from outside Germany. Although, the show was a few weeks ago, it has left a lasting impression–everyone who is anyone in the wine and spirit world was there…and then some! With several huge halls to wade through, one could walk miles and miles each day trying to get to the many exhibitors and to partake in as many of events as possible.
A recap of some highlights:
At the largest wine and spirits show in the world, one expects to see the best wine and spirits, but how about glassware? And are all glasses and containers alike? I learned that the glass used for a particular wine, beer or spirit can have a profound effect on the taste and ultimate appreciation of the beverage for consumers.
Stops at top glass manufacturers like ZwieselKristall, Riedel, Spiegelau to name a few confirmed that great glassware isn’t just about being beautiful, but functional as well. At Spiegelau, I was treated to a beer tasting using a variety of their beer glasses compared to the standard beer glass and was stunned at how the beer’s taste changed when it was in the correct Spiegelau glass.
Spiegelau Beer Glasses
Spiegelau beer glasses are made specific to accentuate the flavors and aromas of a variety of beers. There is a glass for wheat beers, IPAs and another for stout, for example.
The conventional beer glass made the beer taste hoppy and simple with the nose muted to the point that very little of the aroma’s nuances were picked up on the nose. On the other hand, Spiegelau‘s beer glasses accentuated the flavors of citrus and spice, the aroma was suddenly fragrant and alive with honey spice notes of the wheat beer I tasted.
A Variety of Spiegelau Beer Glasses
At Riedel, I was able to participate in a Champagne tasting using four different Riedel glasses. As a lover of bubbles, I was shocked to learn that my go-to Champagne glasses, the traditional flute shaped glass that seems so tall and elegant actually mutes the flavor and aroma of Champagne.
Riedel Champagne Tasting
(Pictured Above) The two glasses on the right opened up the flavors and nuances of the Champagne the best. The larger glass on the right opened up the Champagne the best, but also caused the bubbles to dissipate faster while the glass right of it seemed to make the most out of the champagne without losing its lively sparkle.
One of the Featured Wines at Zwiesel
At Zwiesel Kristall, I was able to experience their glasses with wine made by some of Germany’s top women winemakers. Hosted by Andrea Wirsching of Weingut Hans Wirsching, the glasses were a treat to drink from. It was fun to mingle with the other ladies of wine, too.
Back in Hall 12, the wonderful spirits of Schladerer were shown to advantage. Several unique cocktails were on offer for attendees to try.
Schladerer Mixologist Hard at Work
They all looked great, but I limited myself to trying the Huckleberry Finn and Himbeer Smash.
Back at Hall 14, I checked out a vodka producer using mostly grapes. The vodka was very clean, and seemed to take on some of the characteristics of the grapes used. Especially delicious with dried meat. I admit that it was the packaging that originally caught my attention, but what is in the bottle is equally as good.
Made Mostly with Grapes from the Kaiserstuhl
Bodega Lustau is always a sight for sore eyes. The Amontillado was a beautiful amber color with hazelnut and walnut aromas and on the palate almond flavors dominated. The Palo Cortado was also showing beautifully, some notes of orange marmalade and pecans. Seeing Bodega Lustau was a reminder of how great premium Sherry can be, not to mention its versatility in pairing with food. Below is an example of food paired with Lustau Sherry at their bodega.
The tasting at Lustau and everything from Fino to the most luscious PX
Off to Hall 10, I was lucky enough to snag Dirk van der Niepoort for a little tasting. As always, his ports and wine don’t disappoint.
The 1997 Colheita exhibited dried dark stone fruit, prunes and black berry and the 20 Year Tawny Port, tawny, dried black fruits and toffee notes of coffee and Niepoort’s 2007 Vintage port was dense purple, tightly wound with firm tannins, red and black fruits this port has a lot of time ahead to develop before it is ready to drink.
Dirk van der Niepoort Taking some Time out to Taste some of his ports with me.
He also tasted me on one of his wines. He made a Rose that was just stunning and very unique. Almost full bodied at the same time as bone dry, with rose petal and strawberry finishing on a very minerally note. This is a serious wine, though. And, I could imagine all the foods that it would pair fantastically with.
Agnes Hasselbach of Gunderloch
Over in the Hall 14, a number of the VDP were represented. As always, producers like Gunderloch, von Hovel, Zilliken and Rebholz had stellar line-ups. And, 2015 was another solid vintage. I especially liked Gunderloch’s Nackenheimer Rothenberg Spaetlese. It was luscious with minerally, peach, nectarine and lime flavors.
Christoph Edelbauer at his stand at ProWein
Over in Hall 17, everything Austrian was on display. I was able to catch up with winemaker Christoph Edelbauer to try a selection of his portfolio. The whole range was outstanding, but some wines that stood out was the 2014 Reserve Gruner Veltliner. The wine had a full mouth-feel with lots of peppery spicy notes, lime and nectarine flavors and bursting with lively acidity.
Some of Christoph Edelbauer’s Range of Wine
The 20015 Riesling Kamptal was solid and showed lovely minerality and pear with floral notes. The star of the line-up was the 2014 Chardonnay BA. Logging in at 120 grams of sugar, 8.1 grams of acidity and harvested at 140 Oechsle, this luscious dessert wine was bursting with apricots, honey and chamomile notes.
Finally, it was time to head over to the Champagne Lounge. Represented were all the notables; Pol Roger, Billecart Salmon, Lanson and a bevy of grower Champagne producers. Brimoncourt and A. Robert had some lovely Champagnes worth looking at.
The surprise for me, was the overall topnotch quality of the Duval-Leroy line-up.
The 2002 Brut Nature was everything a zero dosage should be and then some with its purity of fruit expression and precision of fruit and acid balance–it is perfect to drink now.
Duval-Leroy Sales Manager Alexis Vaernewyck holding the Prized Rose in his hands
The Premier Cru Brut Rose and the 2000 Femme de Champagne 95%Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir with 5 or so grams of dosage and 14 years on the lees were truly stunning. But, there wasn’t a dog in this bunch. Actually, the whole range was outstanding and I left thinking that everyone should be so lucky as to drink Champagne of this quality at least once in a life time.
14 years on the lees and well worth the wait
ProWein just keeps getting bigger and bigger each year. Despite its size, it was well organized and a worthy event for those in the trade looking to make important connections in the industry and to taste the best available.
Consider yourself a carnivore extraordinaire? Interested in munching on some homemade Charcuterie cured with maple syrup? Like poutine, the Quebecois specialty of fries, gravy and cheese curd, but with the added twist of foie gras?
Not for the faint of heart, or for any of your vegetarian friends, either, Au Pied de Cochon located in the trendy Plateau Mont-Royal is a meat lovers paradise where foie gras is featured imaginatively in almost every dish.
Chef Martin Picard has attracted such a following, especially for his, rich, fatty pork and duck related dishes he lovingly prepares with a French Canadian twist that obtaining reservations at Au Pied de Cochon is no mean feat. In fact, this unobtrusive brasserie style restaurant is considered one of the best in Montreal and draws tourists from around the world.
Any good meal with family has to begin with a little bubbly and this is where our adventure at Au Pied de Cochon began. This non-dose grower Champagne started things off right, exhibiting bright, pure citrus, mineral and brioche notes this medium-bodied sparkler was a real palate cleanser.
Being with a big group allows for lots of experimentation and we took advantage of that fact, ordering some of Au Pied de Cochon’s most popular house specialties.
The Foie Gras Poutine
Probably one of the most decadent dishes of my life; fries, brown gravy sauce, cheese curds and a big chunk of foie gras. What isn’t to like?
Here is a simple dish, but the quality of the meats were outstanding.
Light and tasty, I don’t think I had a better cod fritter, even in the Basque region of Spain.
Duck in a can after taken out of the can
This dish, duck in a can was over-the-top. I don’t want to know how many fat grams were here, but let’s just say, this is a heart stopper. It still won’t deter me from ordering this tribute to everything duck, again, though.
Pig Head for Two
Ok, I thought this was so cool, I had to post another picture of this. It isn’t every day that you can eat a pig’s head and this one was done to perfection.
There are great desserts on the menu, the rhubarb and strawberry tart and Maple pudding sounded great, among others. But, we lost steam after gorging on several savory dishes I guess it’s reason to drop by on my next trip to Montreal. Bon Appetit!